Nancy has been wanting to do the Tanner/Beamer trail to the confluence of the Colorado and Little Colorado for years. She finally got a permit for it back in June 2024. We were set to do that in 4 days Oct. 18-21. Unfortunately, and despite an extremely dry summer monsoon, the weather forecast turned to wet and cold on the days we were supposed to drop into the canyon. Not wanting to hike and camp in the rain/sleet/snow we explored a number of last minute options and ended with a plan to start a day after the worst of the weather and camp a night at Bright Angel, do a (new to us) route to Utah Flats from that campground, then head to a remote dry camping spot (no water) a few miles east of the South Kaibab Trail for the second night (Cremation Canyon). Not ideal, but we took it.
DAY 1
On the drive up Saturday to the south rim we saw that Flagstaff and the north rim did get about 4" of snow the previous day. So were glad to have missed that. Once at the south rim we headed to the Backcountry Office (BCO) to sort out details/permits. And hurray! A friendly NP Ranger was able to switch our permit from Cremation to Havasupai Gardens. This campground is halfway up Bright Angel Trail and would make for a shorter last hike out. Yet even this last minute plan didn't hold - but this was for the better
From the BCO a bus to the market for bagel sandwiches, then a final bus to the South Kaibab trailhead. The trip down into the canyon was very much like every other time we've done this - except much more wet due to rain/snow from the previous night.
At the backcountry office waiting for the first bus
At Yavapai lodge, waiting for the second bus
Here we go!
This initial descent is so cool. Just a little residual snow.
Looking back up
Wildlife sighting
Pictures just don't do justice to the views
Cedar Ridge - the first flat spot going down South Kaibab
Onward
Water in a bunch of the steps. First time I've seen that.
After this it drops down pretty quick
First view of the river
A little foot care on the way down
Mules bring all supplies in and out of Phantom Ranch
The weather was perfect for a hike.
The Tipoff. Next stop is the bridge over the river
Some nice, smooth trail
Getting closer
You can see some of the construction for the new pumphouse and water treatment facilities.
The tunnel at the black bridge
Home for the night
The creekside sites are the best!
Chill time
Not so wild life
Since we were staying at Phantom Ranch Nancy decided to go luxury and we had dinner and next morning's breakfast in the dining hall. At dinner that night we had 4 ladies from Dallas come in late - they had hiked down from the North Rim and has spent the last 3 hours hiking down in the dark and in the rain. They were waiting for 4 others from their group - who arrived at various times throughout dinner. They were in better spirits than what you'd expect from someone hiking in a new place in the rain and dark.
It continued to rain up until around midnight but soon after the cloud went away and the night sky was lit by an all but full moon. So bright you could see shadows.
DAY 2
Sunday morning we were up early for a hearty breakfast in the dining hall at 6:30. We'd need all the calories we could get for the day's hike.
The previous day, Nancy had a conversation with the local ranger about our plan for this day and to see if we could spend the next night here - instead of shlepping up to Havasupai Gardens - which is where our permit was for. He was a little disconcerted that we knew about the hike we had planned for the day. He didn't want it advertised widely (though I did get the track from All Trails) since there are some challenging bits and he felt like the area we were going to was sensitive and shouldn't see a lot of traffic. I agree that this hike is only for folks experienced in dodgy backcountry routes. The trails were faint and often disappeared and the descent back at the end was steep, loose and quite dodgy. Also, the area by the creek was so peaceful and pleasant, that it is good that few people get out there.
Anyhow, the trail started pretty much from the campground and went aggressively up in loose dirt/gravel. Quick elevation gain.
Heading up there - but that is just the first false summit.
Campground is down there.
But much more climbing to do
Heading up to that gap.
Not the top. Not yet.
Heading into "Piano Alley"
One of the sections near the top of this climb was called Piano Alley, due to the large rock slabs that looked sorta like grand pianos. The trick was to figure out how to go around and over all these to make your way up.
Soooo, where to go from here?
Lots of rock scrambling
Made it out of Piano Alley, but there is more climbing ahead
Scrambling
Climbing up out of the ravine to Utah Flats - named for the rocks that sorta look like what you'd find in Utah.
Up on the flats. Although there was very little actual flat ground.
Finally up on top
This vista alone was worth the climb
While the hiking was easy on this section, the trail was very indistinct.
That green down in the valley is where we are going. Just not sure how we'll get there.
Getting closer
Starting down into the valley where Phantom Creek is.
We are headed to the rocks along the creek down there
A short video on the way down
Almost there!
Cooling off my feet
This would be a great place to camp. Although we found out that night that camping is forbidden in this area so don't try it. You hear me?
Time to head back
Lunch break. Before heading back down.
Heading back down into piano alley
Where is the trail??
Extra chunky
Phantom Ranch down below
Bird's eye view of Bright Angel campground
Easy does it. You can see how loose it is.
This side hike was very cool, but would only recommend for folks who are comfortable with "dodgy" conditions and who have good route finding skills. The final descent back into the campground was especially spicy. Steep with lots of loose gravel/dirt - so not much traction.
Some stats from the hike
From here our permit had us going halfway back up to the south rim to camp at Havasupai Garden. However, this little side hike was more challenging and took longer than we expected. We preferred to spend another night at Bright Angel. Nancy had a chat with the ranger and he let us just move our camp to the AZT Through Hikers Group Site since they were not expecting any through hikers that night. So that allowed us to relax and enjoy the remainder of the day in this very nice campground.
The ranger who had permitted our second night stay came around checking permits and spoke with us for a while on countless other places we can explore after we complete the last two named routes into the Canyon. He recommended a few books that we'll be seeing if we can locate.
A second ranger came by and we heard even more tales of great places to explore. When we exchanged names Nancy realized that she had worked with this ranger many times over the years when arranging for backcountry permits. He recognized her name too. She's not sure if she is famous or infamous with the NP Rangers.
Nancy had brought a little watercolor kit with her. So she did a quick painting of that scene.
DAY 3
Monday morning was time to pack up and hike out. We've done this hike a number of times, so not a ton of pictures. Did take some pics of the construction going on in the Phantom Ranch area. There is a major project in the canyon to fix their ancient water infrastructure. Not many people realize that ALL of the water on the south rim comes from a huge spring on the north rim. That water is piped through the canyon to the south rim. That infrastructure is VERY old and breaks frequently. They finally got the funds to fix the system.
Time to stuff all that back into the pack
Work in progress
Not quite sure that that thing is
Time to cross the silver bridge and get this party started
Work below Havasupai Gardens
The traditional post hike "giant burrito" at Maswick Lodge Cafeteria.
While this trip did not end up the way we planned, it was still great to get away for a few days and we really enjoyed the side hike. Probably will try for the confluence again in the spring and maybe also North Bass trail. And after that....?
"The Grand Canyon perpetually inspires and impresses. It makes one feel minuscule and mighty at the same time. It is exhausting and exhilarating. Worth it!" - Nancy
