Nancy and I sampled the Tour du Mont Blanc hiking trail last year (2022) - completing 25 miles of the 105 total miles. We were so impressed that we decided to come back this year and finish it off. That meant we had around 80 miles more to hike. While the easy way to do this hike is to have someone arrange everything for you (or even carry your stuff from place to place), why let someone else have all the fun? Nancy actually (sort-of) enjoyed the hard work of puzzling out where we'd stay each night and getting us into the appropriate refuges. Since we had a bed and food at each stop, we could hike with minimum gear and clothes - making the hiking more pleasant. You can do this loop camping, but it is pretty challenging since they don't allow camping in many areas. Some of the folks I talked to did a combination of refuges and camping. Personally, I liked having a bed and shower each day.
The week before we started the trip we got notification that some of the high alternate trails (variants) were impassable or challenging due to snow. While Europe had had a dry warm winter, they had a wetter, colder spring - so there was a bunch of snow still up high. We had planned our trip around doing all of the high variants, so this was concerning. Going the low route would be less scenic and, in some cases, significantly longer. We'd just have to see how it goes.
Day 0
Nancy was already in France for her class, so we met up in Geneva. From there we needed to get to Courmayeur, Italy - where we ended last year's trek and would start this year's. We decided on taking a bus from Geneva to Chamonix, France - then taking 3 different cable cars/gondolas over the Mont Blanc massif. This gave us amazing views of Mt Blanc and the surrounding peaks and glaciers. Not the most efficient way to get from Chamonix to Courmayeur, but one of the most interesting.
It starts with a quick cable car ride up the mountain to Aiguille du Midi. They have quite an impressive structure up there. You can spend quite a bit of time wandering around and looking at the various views. You can even arrange to hike on the glaciers or even climb Mt Blanc itself (perhaps another trip?).
Here comes the gondola
You can see people out on the snow
looks fun?
Our destination was the other side so we continued on the next section which is the little gondolas to the Italian side - Pointe Helbronner, This takes you over the glaciers. It is really incredible to be so up close in this little thing swinging on a wire. Not for those afraid of heights, but really awesome for everyone else.
Leaving the station
pretty small gondolas
lots of folks out in the snow
you can see a glacier running down that valley
top of the world
Pointe Helbronner is much smaller than Aiguille du Midi, but more fancy (Italian style). From there another cable car down to Entreves (small village near Courmayeur) - where we would spend the last night before hiking.
heading down to the Italian side
One of my co-workers (hi Sara) is from Torino, which is not far from where we stayed that first night in Italy. She made some food recommendations before I left. One of those was a local specialty of the Aosta Valley - polenta with Fontina cheese. Just so happens the place we were staying this night had a dish that was polenta three ways - Fontina/vegetables/sausage. It was very good - the polenta with Fontina was the best.
polenta!
Day 1
Quick shuttle into Courmayeur and we started hiking - up, of course. Time to get the legs used to climbing - we'd do a lot of it.
time to head out
first of MANY waterfalls
hard to get lost on this trail
up we go
well marked. and they even show hiking time
no idea what this was
rocks and steep climbs - the theme for the trail
looking back to Courmayeur
about to get a good view of the Mt Blanc massif
our first Refuge - Bertone
First stop was Rifugio Bertone. From here the trail split. There was the normal route that went along the side of this mountain or the variant that went over the top. We asked around and it seemed that the warm weather in the last week had made the variant passable. This was just what we wanted to hear, so up we went.
there was a line to fill up water
Just the start of interesting flora
looking back down at Bertone
As we topped out and stopped to look around we were so glad this route worked out. Outstanding 360 degree views. As I look back at the pictures, I can't help but think how insufficient they are in capturing this experience. It was just stunning to be up there.
really nice trail up here
nice place for lunch
a look around
we are heading up to the top, right
one of the bluest flowers i've seen
yeah, that is the trail
just look at that view
We got to the high point, above Col Sapin (Sapin Pass) and paused for a snack and just to soak it in. As we decended down a steep, loose trail to the Col we ran into a group of middle schoolers being led on the trail. One was from Scottsdale - small world! I wonder if those kids realize how fortunate they were to be able to do this.
we are headed down the the right, and then down to the valley on the left
lucky kids
trail down was steep and slippery
Col Sapin
Next we headed down to the valley and back up the other side - cause that is just how this hike goes. We crossed our first (very small) snow field on the way down and our first torrent (Torrente d'Arminaz) running down the valley. It was running pretty fast so we had to search around for a way to get across without getting wet.
first snowfield
there were very few sections of this trail that would be good for biking
lots of water
And up another climb to Col Entre Deux Sauts. This gave us a view into the next valley - again, so scenic. Big waterfalls coming down from the snow and lots of green.
climbing back up
top of the pass
looking up the valley
and heading down the valley
we were thinking that was our destination down there in the valley
interesting flora
turns out that was not where we are staying tonight
As we went down the valley we were dazzled by the various flowers and plants along the way. This was definitely the right time of year to experience the wide variety of alpine flowers. And the wild Azaleas were all over the place.
getting there
wild azaleas were everywhere
our room - with bunk beds
dining area
Rifugio Bonnati
reward for the day's effort
10.4 miles, 5500 feet climbing
Day 2
The day started out hiking along the mountain side, then dropping into the valley (Val Ferret). We stopped by Chalet Val Ferret for what turned out to be the best cappucino and blueberry tart of the trip (photo below, try not to drool). Could have just ended the day there and called it awesome.
heading out
obligatory water crossing
lots of wrecked stone houses
None shall pass!
more cowbell
we'll head way up there at the top
easy does it
fueling up for the big climb
sooooo good
interesting water fountain
However, we couldn't have a day of hiking without a big climb or two. So we headed up Val Ferret toward Grand Col Ferret, which would mark our passage from Italy into Switzerland. As we headed up the valley I kept looking up to see where we would be going. No way we were going to the top of those hills - so there had to be a cut in the mountains that would allow us to pass through lower down. I soon came to realize that TMB don't play like that. The high pass that looked about a mile up was where we would eventually go.
it begins...
it was pretty far down if you slipped. plus this is a snow bridge over a stream. these can be dangerous because they can give way...
This climb, and many others, required that you find a pace you could keep and just slowly make your way up. There were other hikers who were slower and some who were faster.
we passed by Rifugio Elena on the way up
trail was mostly good, but not always
going wayyy up there
getting close...
We had our first Ibex sightings on the way up - but they were pretty far away. We'd see some closer in a few days. We paused at the top for a snack and to rest our weary feet - and, of course, for the view back down Val Ferret. Did we really come all that way?
we came a long way
crossing from Italy to Switzerland
Onward and downward into Switzerland. Tonight we'd be staying at our first dorm style refuge - Chalet le Puele. This made for a shortish day, but Nancy wanted to stay here since it is a working dairy farm - which seemed like an interesting experience. But first, we had to descend down into Val Ferret - not that Val Ferret that we just hiked out of in Italy, but the one in Switzerland. Confusing much?
Anyhow the hike down was, of course very scenic and the trail was good. We eventually came to le Puele - which was hopping with the lunch crowd. Since we were first ones there who were staying the night, we got our pick of bunks to sleep in. The accommodations were very basic, but the views were great and the sound of cowbells were somehow soothing.
and down we go
home for tonight
lunch crowd
deluxe accommodations
our milk and cheese suppliers
8.8 miles 3100 feet climbing
Day 3
This was probably the least interesting day overall since we'd be hiking down a valley, rather than the usual climbing up over a Col. Everyone that I saw leaving this refuge went down the dirt road into La Fouly - which is where the track I had said we should go. But Nancy had overheard hikers telling of an actual trail we could take into the valley starting on the other side of the refuge. Are you sure about that????
Of course we took the random trail that no one else was taking. It went along the hillside, high above the valley. The further we went and the fact that we were getting no closer to the valley made me a tad nervous - there was no obvious way down to where we needed to be. Eventually we want around a corner on the hill and saw a deep crevasse in the distance that would make further progress "interesting". I was of course fully confident in Nancy's decision at this point and continued on with no worries. Fortunately we came upon a sign that pointed to a steep trail taking us down the hill into the valley proper.
down there is where we are "supposed" to be
back down in the valley
the trail was not all that interesting, but we still had the mountains to look at
pausing for some fun
beehives next to a field of flowers
carefull
and more waterfalls
can only imagine what this is like when full
We went through La Fouly and got some snacks. This was the first store we had seen on the trip.
resupply
Continuing on we were back on a trail that paralleled the road down the valley, but was much more interesting. We came upon a little shack serving basic food and drinks - which meant it was time for coffee and a fresh apple tart at a homemade snack stand (photo below) run by a nearby resident and her son.
the trail got pretty good here
the chains on the hillside were totally unnecessary
break time! the snack stand.
Onward through a small Swiss village and then to the climb up to Lac de Champex, where we would end our day. The forecast called for rain later in the day, so we did not dawdle much. As we started the climb clouds started moving in - looking like we might get wet.
it was actually a bit warm down here
nice little garden
lac Champex is up the hill on the left there
integrated a big rock in their house - cool
lots of firewood - ready for winter
The climb up was rather interesting. There were occasional signs about the various mushrooms in the area. Apparently mushrooms are a thing here. Also, as we got near the top there were various creatures cut out of stumps of trees, which was amusing. The trail itself had a detour due to some clearing of timber. Of course that added additional descent and climbing back up.
going up, again
hello there
apparently different varieties of mushroom grow in different areas here
newish fountain - 2021
mushroom info
detour
looks like they are thinning where the trail went
climbers about a mile down from Champex
not sure what that is supposed to be
Charlotte the Marmotte??
Finally, we made it up to the lake just as it started sprinkling a bit. We had made the day without getting rained on.
lac Champex
mmmmkay
looking damp
This night we checked into a fancy hotel - which was quite a difference from the previous night's dorm experience. They had a nice spa, which we never got around to using.
I want one of these chairs
a little different from the usual refuge dinners
Prosecco by the lake - just before it started raining again
14.2 miles 2280 feet of climbing
Day 4
This was kind of a rest day. We had about 1.5 miles to hike to Relais d'Arpette. This would set us up to do a very big day 5 - over Fenetre d'Arpette.
Since we had a small hike (all uphill, of course) we slept in then visited the Alpine Botanical Garden Flore-Alpe, which was just a 5 minute walk away, It was raining by this time and would rain all day. However, as previously mentioned, we only had a short hike to do that day. So actually the best time for it to rain - for us anyhow.
The garden was really nice and the light rain did not hinder the experience at all. We took a bunch of pics there, but I don't want to interrupt the flow of the hike - so they are posted on this page: Alpine Botanical Garden Flore-Alpe.
After that we checked out and hiked up to Relais Arpette.
The water coming down this torrent was impressively angry. This helped make Nancy more anxious about the next day's hike - which we were already unsure about. The hike over Fenetre d'Arpette is one of the two highest passes on TMB. It is recommended to only do this route in good weather as it is very steep and rocky. Given the snow situation, we were hearing that it should not be attempted the week before we started our hike. Given the warm weather and rain, had that changed?
up we go
so much water
impressive and loudly raging torrent
is this really something they do around here?
brutally long hike complete :-)
this would be an amazing view from our room - on a clear day
At dinner that night in the refuge, whether or not to do the big climb was a topic of discussion. Would conditions be OK given the rain and previous warm weather? Or would it be foolish to attempt this?
By breakfast, Nancy and I had decided to do it - and the rest of our table was in as well. So this should be interesting.
Oh, and it did rain all day that day. Reports from other folks who hiked that day were that it was less than pleasant - but we had dodged that.
1.4 miles 572 feet climbing
Sidebar:
One of the really interesting things about this hike was that the refuges have community dining. You sit with a bunch of other people from all over the world at long tables - so end up making lots of acquaintances. Some of those folks you may see again on the trail and others you will never meet. We chatted with a couple from the UK on the first night of the trip who we saw again in passing in Switzerland and then again in France. Although I'm usually a fan of backpacking trips where we see very few people, it was nice to meet a variety of different types of folks - from a young trail runner to a 70 year old lady who was just taking her time.
Day 5
The rain had stopped by morning, but it was rather foggy and damp. We decided to brave the high variant after reading reports on the TMB Facebook group page that the pass was reasonably clear. So we headed up a dirt road right behind two gals from Australia who we would pass and then see again a few days later.
great location
heading into the mist
clearing up a bit
Anyhow, the trail eventually got more real. Lots of rocks to clamber over and a few small snowfields to cross. As usual where we were going was as far up the valley as we could see.
It didn't really hit me how steep this climb was until I turned around and looked back down. Whoaaa. Not sure the pics show the steepness well, but I preferred to continue looking up.
getting rocky
come a ways up, but still plenty more climbing
not much of a trail as we got higher
heading up there
the snowfields were not as bad as expected
lots of rock scrambling
just a big rubble field
steady...don't slip
almost there
The fog at the top cleared on the other side of the pass just as we topped out. Damn, what a view. There was a large glacier across from us with water pouring out from it and down the valley. So glad we did this route - this is the kind of thing we were looking for.
oh yeah!!
great view of the valley we will be descending into
Of course we still had to hike down off this thing without getting hurt, then back up to another Col. That one would prove to be more work - as you'll see.
The hike down was, of course, steep. It was also a bit slippery in parts - due to the previous day's rain. Hiking poles saved me from ending up on my back more than once. Nancy says this was the most difficult descent for her of the trip. At the bottom was Chalet Glacier, which had really nice views up the valley. However, the coffee was instant and the blueberry tart was meh. After a short rest it was time to climb again.
going down was arguably harder than up
big ol' glacier across from us
pretty cool to be up here
continuing down
there is a whole lot of water running off that glacier
nice little summer cottage
steeeeep stairs
what's that for?
ooooh.
careful of the wet roots
looking back up the valley
instant coffee? After all that?
not my favorite refuge
From here we headed up the valley a bit then up the mountain on the other side of the torrent we had followed down the valley. The goal was to get to Col de Balme. I figured this would be like everything else we had done. Climb, climb, climb, up to the top, then down the other side.
But no. It was not to be like that. First we did the climbing thing and came to a structure. Was that the refuge at Col de Balme? No, there was not action there and we were not at the top. So i figured we needed to just climb some more. But not really. From here we went along the side of the mountain, up and down over some good and some lousy trail - for 2.5 miles. I didn't realize it was going to go like this and started getting really frustrated - wanting to get to Col de Balme. Finally we turned a corner and saw it in the far distance. But there were some pretty big snowfields between us and them. These were easily the longest we had traversed to that point.
"Give up if in doubt" - lolz
yeah, it is as steep as it looks
that building is NOT the top - sigh
this was cool
from here we have a couple of miles along the side of the mountain
we leapfrogged with that couple this whole section
Another stone house ruin. What a view - but far from the store
So here is the thing about the snowfields. The all had a bit of a path tromped across them from other hikers. But the path was not solid and given how warm it was, the snow was mushy and slippery. Slipping on one of these would likely send you sliding down the hill. Worse case you'd get hurt on the rocks below. Best case you'd have a long walk back up to the trail. We were uninterested in exploring either option so went slow and steady across these.
At this point Nancy decided she was going to play it safe and put on the Yaktracks we had purchased when we heard there was a bunch of snow still on the route. They probably helped, but would be better on ice than mushy snow. Anyhow we did make it across and to the refuge. We had some lunch and got out of the wind for a bit. We were both pretty toasted. This was the toughest day so far - in every way.
time to try out the yaktrax on the snow
looks like they are working
it was cold and windy up here
The route I had planned had us staying high, then doing a steep descent into the valley. An alternative variant was to go straight down from the Col into the valley. We opted for the latter. In fact, we did the last part of the descent on a cable car. It didn't save a bunch of distance, but the distance it did save was very steep. Once down to civilization (Montroc) we found the Air BnB that Nancy had arranged for us to stay in for 2 nights. That meant an opportunity to wash clothes and a "rest" day.
heading down into the valley
Yes, we cheated. Yes, I'd do it again
home for 2 nights
The two days in Montroc are where we really figured out mass transit - which is awesome in this area. This little town was pretty much nowheresville - so we had to go into Argentiere to get groceries and for dinner. We were about .5 miles from the main road and the bus stop. So after some research we figured out the bus times and road that bus into town and back multiple times. There was lots of scrambling to get to the bus stop so we wouldn't have to wait another 30 minutes for the next bus and then we had to kinda rush through dinner to not miss the last bus out of town. It was a bit on the stressful side, but better than walking all that way.
Dinner in town was at a nice little place where I got an opportunity to try a Swiss specialty - Raclette. Basically, ham and potatoes covered in melted cheese. It was tasty. Nancy had a hamburger - which I was very skeptical of. However, it had good cheese and was quite delicious.
raclette
French burger
14.9 miles 6000 feet climbing
Day 6
Our rest day was not all that restful.
It started out with a trip to the market - cause we had to feed ourselves. Olives, tapenade, half a roast chicken, cherries, lettuce (picked that morning), sausage, and (of course) cheese and bread made for a couple of very nice meals.
part of our market haul
Next on the list was a visit to the ice cave in the Mer de Glace glacier. We had intended on doing that last year, but it did not work out. Since we were just a train ride away from Chamonix, seemed like a good idea to get that done. Again, we were about .5 miles from a train station so we ended up taking that into Chamonix for this little trip. Fortunately the train station was right next to where we wanted to go.
on the train
train station
They have a nice little cogwheel train that takes you up to Montenvers station. From there a cable car takes you down toward the glacier, but then there are many, many, many stairs to get down to the glacier.
One of the really interesting things about taking the stairs down are the signs showing where the level of the glacier was at different points in recent history. It is astounding how much this glacier has shrunk.
The cave itself was small, but fascinating. We saw some folks doing a little ice climbing outside of the cave. If only we had more time...
and overview of the glacier
you start by taking this gondola down
and then millions of steps
amazing how far the glacier has receded
so.many.stairs.
those folks are climbing up the ice - fun!
ice queen?
yes, this is inside the glacier
not sure what these were
Day 7
Back at it. This day was actually short from a milage standpoint, but was all uphill to Refuge du Lac Blanc.
The trail started out pretty much like other trails. In the woods at the start, but ascending up above the tree line. As we got up to where it was difficult to make the trail go up, there were some ladders and metal steps to get us up over the rocks. That part was a lot of fun and definitely added to the adventure quotient.
interesting scarecrow
blueberries!
back down there is where we started the day
trail is getting interesting
and now it is getting fun
heading up there
not at the top yet - just a trail intersection
people love stacking rocks
continuing up
Eventually we got up to Lacs de Cheserys, which was close to where we needed to be. A little more climbing got us up to lac Blanc and our refuge for that night. This would be the highest place we'd spend a night (7700 feet) and was pretty basic. Showers were broken and bathrooms were in a different building from the bunkhouse. Also, one of the most basic breakfasts - bread, butter, and jam.
This lake is VERY popular. You can get most of the way up on a lift, but still have some stout climbing. There were tons of people when we got there, but they cleared out in the afternoon since the last lift down was 4pm. I opted to mostly include pictures of the lake the next morning - when it was quiet.
a couple of lakes below lac Blanc
final ladders
almost there
this is how supplies come in and trash goes out
helicopter supply
lac Blanc
our accommodations for the night. Nancy had the "tray bed" in front of the window and I took the bottom bunk on the right. very cosy.
now this is living
3.54 miles 3300 feet of climbing. that's just about 1100 feet a mile. but who's counting?
Day 8
The big goal for today was Col du Brevent. This is another area that there had been warnings about. The route goes up to the top of the mountain on the south side, which is no problem, but then goes along the north side for a while - where snow is slower to melt. However, seeing what we had seen so far, there was no question we were going up there.
Since we were pretty far up the day started with a descent. On the way out of lac Blanc we got our first up close look at an Ibex. It seemed unconcerned about our presence.
hello there
down we go
just another day in the mountains
After descending a bit we went along the mountain is some pretty nice wooded trail.Of course we had to climb to get to Col du Brevent. So up we went, eventually getting to the pass, where there was snow. Took a couple of pics and headed back down the other side through a snowfield - following a few other people. The trail then went across a couple of dodgy snowfields and started heading down - which seemed wrong. I seemed to recall that this trail went ALONG the north side of the mountain - not DOWN it. I consulted the GPS track and, sure enough, we were off track. We were less than half a mile off track, but we had descended a bunch. So, we had to climb back from the Col, then realized that we should have gone up from there, not down.
Ah well, back on track with some bonus hiking.
gotta stack them rocks
notice the hang glider starting off down there
Col du Brevent
No! Not that way!
we went down past that switchback before realizing our mistake
hey dummies. you are going the wrong way.
It did turn out that there was a bit of snow on the north side of Brevent. More snow fields to cross, another ladder section (yay) and we eventually came around back to the south side. Our end point for the day was at the bottom of the valley in Les Houches - which meant we had a ton of descending to do.
back on track and back in the snow
heading down
apparently that lift goes to the valley floor. soooo tempting.
gotta go all the way down there
The route down was frequently rocky, steep and tricky.
occasionally they had these little helper steps
getting close to the bottom
The "official" start/finish
For folks who do this route the standard way the final descent into Les Houches is the end of their trip. And that is too bad. That final 5 miles or so is a real drag. It is just a constant steep downhill in the woods. You can't see much and you just want it to end. It kind of made me angry so I was glad we had another day to see some cool stuff.
Once again, we had an opportunity to make use of public transport. Since our weird hotel (Rocky Pop) was so far out from Les Houches (about 1.5 miles) the bus was our friend. Nancy found a nice little place for dinner - the owner had come from Paris and set up this restaurant so his daughter could grow up in the country. We had a very nice meal and then strolled back to the bus stop to wait for the bus. A couple of other people came over to wait as well. After a bit a lady came up and mentioned that the last bus for the day had already passed through. We totally forgot to check for that. So we got to walk off our meal on the 1.5 mile trek back to the hotel. Fun.
15.25 miles 3400 feet of climbing (7600 feet of descent!)
Day 9
Last day of hiking. Still had about 10 miles to hike, with one big pass (Col de Tricot) to conquer.
This day started from Les Houches, which is the "official" start of TMB. For many people this section is the start of their tour. Also, nearly everyone takes the Bellevue cable car from Les Houches up the mountain since the climb up doesn't add much. Given how tough the previous day was, we opted for this as well. While I waited in line Nancy went across the street to a boulangerie and had them make us a couple of sandwiches for lunch - local ham and cheese and pickles on a baguette. It was delicious.
clearly we were not the only ones taking the lift
close the gate!
there is a big glacier up on the left
Soon we came to Torrent de Bionnassay - which was essentially a huge stream of water coming out of the Bionnassay glacier. There was a suspension bridge crossing this torrent - which was fun.
After that we continued up and took a variant trail up to the top of Col de Tricot. At the top you could see the little village of Miage where there is a refuge. The valley that Miage is in is pretty stunning. Would be a fantastic place to spend the summer.
this alternate route to the col was MUCH more interesting than just going straight up the valley
close to the col
a real steep trail goes up to the glacier. But we did not have proper equipment
Miage in the valley below
the trail down was steep and a little muddy
stunning
obligatory coffee break
After some coffee and tart (of course) at Refuge de Miage we headed up the other side of the valley which was, of course, a nice steep climb. We reached the top and headed toward Les Contamines - where our lodging for the night was.
a bit muddy on the climb
looking back to Col de Tricot and Miage
someone carved a seat out of a stump - which I was happy to test
we are going that way
into the outskirts of Les Contamines
The place we were staying was essentially on trail, so we stopped there to eat the sandwiches that were made for us that morning. Then we dropped our packs at the hotel and proceeded to walk the remaining 2.5 miles to where we started our trek the previous year so that we could close the loop.
home for tonight
doing the last stretch without packs
saw a few ski jumping places around here
officially closed the loop
10 miles 2300 feet of climbing
Day 10
Not hike related, but Nancy wants me to include this.
After the hike we took a couple of busses (one of which was very late - and caused much stress) back to Geneva to get ready to leave the next day. While we were in Geneva Nancy had scheduled to do a chocolate tour. This was a 3 hour walking tour, which mixed the history of the city with visits to a number of chocolate shops, where we got to sample the wares.
hot chocolate in front of lake Geneva
The Caramelia - A milk chocolate mousse on top of a brownie biscuit with salted butter caramel inside. Outstanding.
smashed cauldron
Postscript
The TMB is one hell of a great loop. If you have the time and desire it is worth doing the whole thing. If not just doing a few sections is still worth your time. There is a huge industry of people who will help you plan and execute any version of this trip you want to do. Fortunately Nancy is a one woman planning machine and put this whole thing together herself. We stayed in a really wide variety of places and hiked on a wide variety of trails. This is an incredibly beautiful area and everyone should make the effort to visit - it is worth the effort.
