Kaibab Ramble

Once again John came up with an idea for a bikepacking weekend that Nancy and I couldn't resist. We weren't the only ones - the total group ended up being 12.

The plan was to meet at the Stateline (UT/AZ) Campground - at the north end of the Arizona Trail on Friday night. From there we'd take forest roads and a little of the AZT down to the north end of Grand Canyon National Park. Spend the night there, then head back on the AZT to the start.

Nancy and I headed out a little after noon on Friday for the 6 hour drive up the campground - hoping to get there in the daylight since we didn't know what the dirt road to the campground would be like.

After we passed through Flagstaff I flipped on the radio and immediately heard one of those serious warnings on the radio about flash flood warning between Jacob Lake and Marble Canyon - pretty much where we were headed. This was a little bit of a surprise since the forecast for the weekend called for a 10% chance of rain.

As we rolled up the highway through some pretty cool scenery, we could definitely see that it was storming up that way.

We got rained on a bit on the way up to Page, but missed most of the storms rolling around the area.

There are two ways to approach the campground, from the AZ side or from UT. Our nav system sent us through Utah, past Page, so that's how we went. While the southern approach is quite scenic, the northern route is even better. Was glad we went this way. The dirt road on the northern stretch was much shorter, but more ragged than from the south. Then there was this drop into a wash that was an example of why we bought an SUV. Although I was pretty amazed to hear that a Honda Fit and Chevy Volt made it down the same embankment.

We made it to the remote, but surprisingly nice, Stateline campground with some light still left in the day. Folks gathered, firewood was burned, stories were told.

Saturday morning started with a brief bit of rain. Just enough to get everything we left outside muddy. So much for that 10% chance of rain. Maybe that was it?

Breakfast time

We had the place to ourselves

Let's go!

With Shannon and Rhino getting a head start we still got 10 of our group of 12 together for a starting picture. Thanks to Kimberly for being the photographer and all around sherpa.   

Our route for the day would head south, mostly on forest roads. Since we were essentially at the low point for the day, we had to do some climbing - which seemed to be the theme of the day. 

Assume the position

As we got to the top of our first, and biggest climb we started to hear a rumbling in the distance. But, 10% chance of rain!! I tried to tell everyone it was just a big truck rumbling down the road - but no one was buying. From here we ducked into the woods on the AZT for a while. This was slight uphill, but very fun and fast rolling. 

Beginning to look a little humid

Into the woods for a nice section of AZT

Looking a little dark up there

The raindrops started coming down so we all stopped and got out our rain gear. Nothing to do but continue on. 

Fortunately, we had great luck. We essentially rode between two big storms, missing the really heavy downpours. 

And the jackets come off

At this point we detoured to the Navajo Trail since John had experienced death mud in the section of the AZT in front of us during a little ride he did this year. We would take this section to some more dirt roads and eventually to the highway and Jacob Lake.

You can see the storm that we somehow missed off to the north

Taking a break to fix a derailleur issue

We settled in around the lunch counter at Jacob Lake Inn for some refuelling. We'd end up going here for lunch the next day as well.

Lunch over - time to roll

As we gathered up to head back out it started raining. And it rained pretty good. We timed that well. Ten minutes later and we would have been on our way - in the rain. Since we were still at the Inn we just waited it out for about 15 minutes. 

Glad to be under cover for this

As soon as it slacked off we headed out. Soon enough the sun was out and we were peeling off layers. Gotta love AZ weather. 

We rolled by the actual Jacob Lake. The general consensus was that this was pretty underwhelming. The criteria for a lake in these parts appears to be pretty easy to meet. That seems closer to a mud puddle. 

On we went down many a dirt road. The route kept us on a gradual increase in elevation for the day. 

Climbing on smooth dirt roads - love it!

Given the size of the group there were big differentials in speed. But we gathered up a few times in the first half of the ride. On the last of these rest stops two methods for resting were illustrated.

There were these folks - doing whatever it is they are doing. 

Then there was these guys - who had the right idea, in my opinion. 

After this stop we all kind of scattered. I personally was in full suffer mode due to not having ridden much the last month. Slow and steady...

And there goes Nancy

I eventually made it to the Country Store near Demotte campground. This was our resupply point an last chance for water until we hit Jacob Lake the next day. From here we had originally planned to continue south to the Grand Canyon National Park border and take the AZT back - hopefully to the East Rim viewpoint. Given that the day had turned out tougher than expected and I was not the only one hurting, the decision was made to cut off that southern part of the loop and head right to the East Rim. A stout climb and about 4 miles were all that separated us from camp that night. Onward!

When we rolled into the East Rim area, it was still light and Ben's wife (Kimberly) was waiting there with a cooler of beer. Now that is how you end a day's ride. Kimberly was sort of our support wagon this weekend. While she did get a little bit of riding of her own did, she also helped the group out with a few logistical challenges. That was really nice and much appreciated. 

We all made it in time to see the sun set on the Vermillion Cliffs off to the east. 

Setting up camp on the edge of the rim

Sunset pics

Vermillion cliffs

The night was a little windy, and chilly, but no rain. The next day broke with blue skies and not a hint of moisture. 

Breakfast time

Sun rising

Breaking camp

Nancy and I got up with the sun, did breakfast, broke camp, and were ready to roll before the rest of the crew. Rather than stand around shivering, we headed out. As slow as I had been the day before, I figured we'd be caught pretty quickly. 

I really love this section of the AZT. You go in and out of wooded areas and beautiful meadows. And the trail is just fun. 

Morning sun on the Aspen. Gotta love that.

Of course there is some HAB

But just look at that meadow

Eventually the trail heads up a substantial climb into an area that had been burned some years ago. This section has a totally different feel due to that burn. But the trail flows pretty good here. 

Before heading out of the burned area there is another stout bit of climbing. But then you are just a couple of miles away from a 5 mile downhill to 89A/Jacob Lake. 

back in the trees

Enjoying the descent

Once again we gathered at Jacob Lake Inn for sustenance. It was a little off track, but worth the extra effort. The group was a little smaller at this point - day 1 had taken a toll. Those who remained rolled out toward the final 30 miles, which I was told were "all downhill" - which got changed to "trends downhill". Fortunately Kimberly gave Nancy and I the straight dope about the last 10 miles. They started with about 7 miles of ups and downs. So there was still plenty of work to do. 

As we aproached the last section I was excited to see it start with a nice climb. "Trending downhill"? John got a few choice words from me there. 

Once at the top it did roll for a bit then went down through a drainage on some VERY fun trail. Then it was out on the plain for slight downhill, and fast rolling.No pictures as we were humming along at top speed (for singlespeeds) on this section. When we got to the sign that signified 10 miles to go, I was ready for some ups and downs. And there were plenty. 

One of many climbs

Eventually we got to the point where we could see off the mesa to red rocks in the distance. 

The campground is out there somewhere.

At this point we headed down into a trail in a drainage that was a super fun downhill. That eventually led into the switchbacks that took us down off the mesa to the campground. This last few miles was beautiful, fast rolling, and so much fun. An excellent way to end the ride. 

And done.

The rest of the crew rolled in and gathered up for post ride stories, snacks, and libations. Since we all had the next day off we were all planning to spend the night at the campground. Post ride parties are the best. 

This ride is highly recommended, even if you don't get to do it with such a great group of people. The first day is mostly climbing and a bit of work. But the reward is day two which "trends downhill" and takes you through some amazingly beautiful country. Can't wait to see it again in April...